Author: jamietoth

  • Conversation with Independent Filmmaker Sujewa Ekanayake about the making of “The Secret Society For Slow Romance”

    I loved being able to watch the Secret Society For Slow Romance, but I found myself bursting with questions as soon as the credits rolled. I am honored that Sujewa Ekanayake, the auteur behind the work, took the time to do a Q&A with me about slow cinema, happiness, and working on independent movies through a pandemic.

    NYC filmmaker Sujewa Ekanayake. Copyright 2021 Sujewa Ekanayake. Used with permission.

    What attracted you to slow cinema?

    The first slow cinema type movie that I saw and was super impressed with was Mystery Train by Jim Jarmusch. The slow pace, the chill approach to life — the realistic characters, multi-ethnic casting in 1989 — ahead of its time — the humor, multiple stories, the great cinematography and music — all of that was excellent — and I thought that was a great way to tell a story in a movie.

    Later on, as I discovered more indie, art house, foreign movies, I seemed to enjoy the slower movies more. It’s the opposite of the plot driven Hollywood movies — which do not linger and get into characters and the environment as much.

    Slow cinema makes room for the lived experience, the present — with all its many details. It’s a nice form for me to use when making my movies. Also there is a Buddhistic/meditational/observational/compassionate quality to it — which I enjoy. To pay attention to something, in a way, is to show love.

    Allyson (Alia Lorae) and Rene (Sujewa Ekanayake) on a date in New York City, from The Secret Society For Slow Romance. Copyright 2021 Sujewa Ekanayake. Used with permission.

    From just a bit of research about you and knowing you on Twitter, you are extremely productive and passionate, and are very supportive of the independent film community and are active in elevating as many projects and makers as you can while working at honing your craft. In other words — a blend of Rene’s optimism and Allyson’s productivity. What inspired you to start making movies? How many have you made? How does Secret Society for Slow Romance fit into your story?

    I have been making indie movies since about 1991. But mostly since about 1998. And have made a number of friends along the way. We keep in touch on social media, and promote each other’s projects when possible. Also I blogged a lot in the past. And the habit continues on the micro-blogging platform Twitter. It’s a good way to keep current on indie film world news.

    I decided to become a filmmaker right after high school. It was Spike Lee’s Do The Right Thing that made it clear to me that a single artist — an auteur — can make movies in the indie film world and sometimes get wide distribution. After that, I discovered Rick Schmidt’s book Feature Filmmaking At Used Car Prices, and at film school — Columbia College Chicago — I discovered Jim Jarmusch, Wim Wenders and other art house auteurs and their films — which were sources of inspiration for my work.

    I’ve made 10 films so far — 2 shorts, 2 documentary features, and 6 fiction features. Slow Romance is the 10th film that I directed. Couple of earlier ones are not yet edited. 4 of my movies are now available on Vimeo VOD — Werewolf Ninja Philosopher, Breakthrough Weekend, Date Number One, Indie Film Blogger Road Trip. Eventually I’ll make everything available at a number of websites. Slow Romance will screen at theaters in 2022, and I’ll release it on Blu-ray, VOD after that — in late 2022 or in 2023.

    Making movies is an interesting challenge, a good way to live in and connect with the world — so I do it.

    Slow Romance is probably the most complex movie that I’ve made — multi-layered — even though it has a minimal cast of 2 central characters. I shot the movie for I think 7 or 8 weekends — which is a long time for a “no budget”/ultra-ultra-ultra-ultra low budget indie movie. And I edited it for about 10 months or so — again, a long time for an indie movie. The 10:1 shooting ratio gave me a lot of choices for putting together an interesting movie. Slow Romance brings together an optimistic view on life, humor, and great shots of New York City, a celebration of the city — a continuation of my themes from earlier movies.

    The Secret Society for Slow Romance is partially a celebration of New York City. Copyright 2021 Sujewa Ekanayake

    The music of The Secret Society for Slow Romance brings a light, happy air to the long, contemplative takes — what was the music process like for this movie?

    I listened to a lot of possible music by Kevin MacLeod (https://incompetech.com/music/royalty-free/) — he makes excellent music — while I was editing the movie. Eventually I chose music that added an interesting extra element to the scenes. Also the soundscape in the movie was very much inspired by sounds I hear in my Sunset Park, Brooklyn neighborhood — radiator noises in the apartment in winter, people on the street, traffic, music of all kinds — specially Latin music, and just the general upbeat musical vibe of New York City.

    A beautiful shot of New York City from The Secret Society for Slow Romance. Copyright 2021 Sujewa Ekanayake. Used with permission.

    Tell me about the timing of the pandemic and the Secret Society for Slow Romance — where was the movie in production when the pandemic hit? Did it impact casting? The story?

    Originally the LA based indie filmmaker Amir Motlagh was supposed to play the Rene role. The character being named Rene came from possibly his parents having an affinity for French culture. Which, back in the day, was a thing with some Iranians. But the pandemic and the shutdowns in March 2020 put an end to the idea of Amir acting in the movie. Then I decided to play the role myself — and adapted the screenplay to my strengths. I am very comfortable talking about film and filmmaking, also positive ideas and practices, so I re-worked the script assigning that content to the Rene character, and other things to the Allyson character. I kept the character name Rene — now Rene is played by someone who looks South Asian — so it is a bit of a mystery — which is interesting. Rene is not a typical South Asian name.

    The entire script had to be re-worked. Originally it took place at multiple locations — restaurants, parks, apartments. The new version was centered around Rene’s apartment, with shots of the two characters out in the city. Which, ultimately, turned out well.

    Couple of other actors were selected for the Allyson role earlier in the process. But the pandemic delays and other delays caused me to re-cast that role — ultimately going to Alia Lorae — who I worked with on my previous movie Werewolf Ninja Philosopher — and she did a great job in the role, a total pro.

    Overall major points of the story were not impacted by the pandemic. But we adopted mask wearing, pandemic norms when shooting the movie — and talked about them, showed them in the movie.

    Alia Lorae as Allyson, from The Secret Society for Slow Romance. The pandemic (and masking!) were woven into the storyline. Copyright 2021 Sujewa Ekanayake. Used with permission.

    How do you even cast for the Most Productive in NYC and the Happiest Person North America? Once Alia was cast, how did she influence her character?

    The characters and the script were written. Then I selected the actors — ultimately myself and Alia. We acted out the script.

    Alia received notes on the character and she created a version of the character that worked very well for the movie.

    Allyson is bit of a larger than life figure. Alia brought her to life well. Alia is a trained actor, so she can do many things — has the skills.

    Visually the Allyson character was interesting — clothes, mannerisms. So it was fun to film and edit the movie.

    The pandemic certainly went on longer than everyone expected — what kind of impacts did it have to the timeline of the movie, and what sorts of challenges did it bring to filming?

    The pandemic delayed the movie at least by 6 to 9 months. And it is making distribution more complex — with some theaters opening back up slowly. But, as an indie filmmaker, I am always ready to adapt to changes. So overall it was not a huge problem for me. Just many things to adjust to.

    The Secret Society for Slow Romance is pretty dense with film and philosophical references — were there any you wanted to include, but couldn’t?

    There were 3 other scenes that were planned but were not fully written out or filmed. In those scenes I got more into positive ideas — from Buddhism and other spiritual practices — Rene stuff. Ultimately I decided they were not really needed — and we had to wrap up filming at some point.

    Behind the Scenes of The Secret Society for Slow Romance, with Alia Lorae as Allyson. Copyright 2021 Sujewa Ekanayake. Used with permission.

    What was your favorite reference to another film or work that you made?

    I enjoyed being able to add a couple of shots from Werewolf Ninja Philosopher into Slow Romance.

    Were there specific inspirations for Rene? For Allyson? What were the challenges in writing each of them to keep their voices authentic?

    The characters are fictional — and were created in order to eventually bring about their “save the world” plan to life — in the movie. Their solution for ending poverty comes very much from their experiences, interests, and personalities. Other than that, there are many real life people who are positive and constructive like Rene, and there are — and have been — many female indie/underground filmmakers similar to Allyson — in many ways — in the real world.

    What was the most difficult part of acting in your own work?

    Acting is difficult work. Even more so when you are directing. But, since Alia is a pro actor, and since it was just myself and her — taking our time with scenes — doing 5 takes per angle sometimes — we were able to get good performances. In a way acting in something you are directing, and something you wrote, is a bit easier because you know the character and the story well.

    What was a non-pandemic-related challenge to making The Secret Society for Slow Romance?

    Writing the script took a long time. Editing took a long time. Since I only do those things every 2–3 years these days I was a bit rusty. I plan on making more movies — faster — to keep my skills sharp.

    Rene (Sujewa Ekanayake) and Allyson (Alia Lorae) sharing with each other in The Secret Society For Slow Romance. Copyright 2021 Sujewa Ekanayake. Used with permission.

    It’s so refreshing to have a movie be unabashedly positive and happy, was that always the intent for the movie, or are you planning a gritty reboot? All kidding aside, was it challenging to write and act in scenes where characters are so vulnerable about their thoughts and feelings, while also maintaining that positivity? How did you keep it light?

    It was always the plan — once the characters and the story were selected — to make a very upbeat, positive, happy movie. Once the pandemic hit it became even more important to make that kind of a movie. Because I could see that people would need something light a year or so down the road — as we work to recover from the pandemic. It would be a challenge for me to promote a dark movie in 2021 and 2022, 2023. Real life is dark enough right now. We need light things as art/entertainment.

    Rene (Sujewa Ekanayake) and Allyson (Alia Lorae) in The Secret Society for Slow Romance. Copyright 2021 Sujewa Ekanayake. Used with permission.

    Throughout The Secret Society for Slow Romance, Rene talks about the process and approach to creating indie film with Allyson. Can you talk about this meta-instructional layer where you laid out a road map for people feeling inspired to create their own indie movies?

    Real indie movies have been made since the 1950s and earlier. Actually probably from day 1. Also in the 1920s and beyond by filmmakers such as Oscar Micheaux — who had to work outside the mainstream industry due to racism. Anyway, how Slow Romance was made is a blueprint for possible other projects. A very small cast and crew can make a movie now. Releasing those movies is another challenge — and hopefully I’ll have some good answers about that challenge in a year or two — once the Slow Romance distribution project is completed. For other people interested in making movies — do it — grab a camera, grab some actors, start filming scenes. Then over time you can make more complex work, with ambitious goals — such as using your movies to try to end poverty worldwide. Regardless of the outcome, indie filmmaking is an interesting, rewarding creative lifestyle to practice.

    The Secret Society For Slow Romance will be released in April 2022, and you can go to the official website, https://www.slowromancemovie.com, for clips and more information!

    By Jamie Toth, The Somewhat Cyclops on .

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    Exported from Medium on January 21, 2022.

  • 18½ : Fun With Watergate

    There are movies that draw you in, and there are movies that draw you in so much you forget the world around you. 18½ is so riveting and immersive that I forgot I was making a cup of tea and found a cup of cold, over-steeped leaf water after the final credits rolled.

    The iconic opening shot is of Connie Lashley (Willa Fitzgerald) in her car, listening to an announcer on the radio talk about how theories are continuing around the missing 18½ minutes on the Watergate tape. The world around Connie pans in an impossible direction behind her and Luis Guerra’s music swells in the background, enveloping us in the world of a 1970’s political thriller.

    18½‘s intricate plot is set up in the opening scene between Connie and Paul Marrow (John Magaro, an established reporter she’s asked to meet her. The paranoiac web of taped conference rooms maintained by the Nixon Administration has created a copy of the missing 18½ minutes that hard-working Office of Management and Budget (OMB) transcriptionist Connie has in her possession. Connie’s tape not only includes Nixon (Bruce Campbell) telling his Chief of Staff General Al Haig (Ted Raimi) that the tape of his June 20th 1972 discussion about the Watergate break-in with his prior chief of staff H.R. “Bob” Haldeman (Jon Cryer) needed to be destroyed, but it also contains the 18½ minute discussion itself. Connie tells Paul that no one knows the tape that she has with her exists and that she needs to return the tape by Monday morning. In other words, Connie has the missing 18 and a half minutes that everyone is talking about on a tape that’s in her purse.

    Connie and Paul negotiate, outlining a plan that will allow Connie to feel safe and maintain ownership of the tape while also allowing Paul to establish its veracity by listening to it, which requires a reel-to-reel tape player. They decide to check-in to the nearby Silver Sands Motel, a beachfront motel on the Chesapeake. As Connie and Paul introduce themselves as married couple Archie and Ruth to fellow cyclops and innkeeper Jack (Richard Kind), each lie they tell raises the stakes and notches up the tension.

    It is in this surreal other-world of the Silver Sands that we spend a majority of the film in, and the location served as one of the inspirations for the creation of the film itself. The well preserved, mid-century classic motel is located in NY, but the rich location filled with highly saturated pastel colors easily fills in for the Chesapeake beaches where I spent large portions of my youth.

    Paul (John Magaro) and Connie (Willa Fitzgerald) at the Silver Sands in 18½. Image used with permission. Photo Credit: Ellie Schneider, copyright Waterbug Eater Films.

    The world of Silver Sands Motel is peopled with strange characters that shift between zany and threatening — the bread-obsessed hippies might be a sex cult, the overly-friendly odd couple insisting on having dinner might be trying to start one, and the cyclops Jack seems to see (and say) both too much and not enough. Is the person fishing on the water looking for something other than fish? The music adds to this atmosphere, morphing a psychedelic 70’s track into hushed, suggestive tones.

    18½ never takes the viewer’s intelligence for granted. The well-written script ensures that context is given to the history and the moments for those that missed the headlines the first time around. Each detail serves a purpose (even the type of car Connie and Paul drive comes up in conversation). By the time that Connie and Paul are having dinner with eccentrics Samuel (Vondie Curtis Hall) and Lena (Catherine Curtin) I was alternating between laughing to release a bit of tension and laughing at the weird charm and humor of the scene because with all of its smarts, 18½ is also quite funny. From the situational humor that its vibrant and strange characters create to the jokes meant to break moments of tension, 18½ has a natural, sly humor that brings levity and a bit of release. The story allows for a variety of delightful performances from all of its actors.

    Director Dan Mirvish teamed up with writer Daniel Moya to create the script. The film began shooting in early spring of 2020, and were forced to pause after a mere 11 days of filming for the pandemic. The ingenuity that Dan and his team used to get 18½ completed was a story in itself (and included a lot of sourdough). Filmmaker Magazine as well as Variety both ran stories regarding the challenges of getting 18½ filmed during the pandemic.

    18½ has the spirit of a light-hearted heist, the plot of a political thriller, and the characters of a romantic comedy, which makes it charming in every way. 18½ is a fun movie about Watergate, which is an unexpected sentence to write. While Watergate might seem ‘stale’ or ‘boring’ by today’s political story standards, 18½ features a well-written, original story firmly rooted in its place and time — and it’s very effective at pulling the viewer into its world. It’s a fast-moving, fun romp through a turbulent political time that also invites us to ponder the deeper implications and possible parallels to our own time.

    18½ premiered at Woodstock Film Festival on October 2nd to a sold out audience, and will be having a Midwestern Premiere at the Tallgrass Film Festival October. The International Premiere for 18½ is at the Sao Paulo International Film Festival (aka Mostra). The best way to keep up with what is going on with the movie and how to see it is at Dan Mirvish’s website for the movie, https://danmirvish.com/18-1-2.

    I, for one, will be watching for news on a soundtrack release.

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  • My Induction into “The Secret Society for Slow Romance”

    I was privileged to spend part of the pandemic watching the creation of The Secret Society for Slow Romance unfold on social media, and was absolutely thrilled to get a chance to be one of the earliest screeners for the movie. While I was worried about how Sujewa Ekanyake’s movie would handle a comedic romance during a global pandemic, I was delighted to find that it dealt with the pandemic (and a variety of deep subjects) with a heavy dose of wit and a sprinkle of intelligent, disarming earnestness. The movie is like a warm, cozy blanket — soothing and comfortable, and good for uplifting spirits. Ultimately, The Secret Society for Slow Romance is a cozy love note to cinema, independent film-making, and New York City.

    Sujewa Ekanayake as Rene and Alia Lorae as Allyson in The Secret Society for Slow Romance. Image Copyright 2021 Sujewa Ekanayake. Used with permission.

    I can’t be sure of how I initially started following independent filmmaker Sujewa on social media, but it probably has to do with our shared love of David Lynch (and an admiration for what Dune was). I was certain I’d watch anything he made once I watched his incredible slow cinema comedic noir “Werewolf Ninja Philosopher.

    On the most fundamental level, The Secret Society for Slow Romance is a slow cinema romantic comedy that explores what happens when two extraordinary people go on a few dates in New York City. The slow cinema styling allows us to explore big questions and even larger answers as filmmakers Rene (Sujewa Ekanayake) and Allyson (Alia Lorae) share take-out, conversation, and beautiful views of New York City. Throughout the movie, shots are allowed to linger on interesting spaces, objects, and people — the soft, welcoming glow gives character to the camera itself, which should be no surprise in a movie focused on two filmmakers.

    Sujewa Ekanayake as Rene,Alia Lorae as Allyson in The Secret Society for Slow Romance. Image Copyright 2021 Sujewa Ekanayake. Used with permission.

    Rene and Allyson aren’t just any filmmakers. Scientific studies found Rene to be the Happiest Man in North America. Allyson was voted The Most Productive Person in NY City by an independent film site. Through conversational exploration of the differences in their approaches to independent movie making, as well as their respective interests, we’re invited to contemplate all that cinema has to offer the world and just what a vast scope the word ‘film’ encompasses.

    During the movie, Allyson and Rene talk about their ambitions in film, and it was wonderful to feel like I was in on conversations about some of the challenges of independent filmmaking.

    Alia Lorae as Allyson in The Secret Society for Slow Romance. Image Copyright 2021 Sujewa Ekanayake. Used with permission.

    “I never really thought of happiness as a goal to achieve, I just kind of thought of it as something that happens like other things in life.” — Allyson

    I found myself, more than once, jotting down pages of notes of what Rene thought we should all learn in junior high — the movie is so dense with philosophical concepts and film references that attempting to catalog them all is a feat in and of itself. The slow, easy timing of the movie and laugh out loud absurdist humor makes the dense material playful. This positive atmosphere permeates every moment of the film. While Rene often comments on his surprise that Allyson hasn’t encountered a concept, that surprise is never from a place of judgement. Allyson’s interest in the most independent and experimental of films doesn’t reject anything more popular. In other words — these two characters are too comfortable in their own skin to be bothered with that.

    While the bulk of the film is focused on time with Rene and Allyson together, it doesn’t mean that the world of The Secret Society for Slow Romance isn’t filled with interesting characters. Days after watching, I found myself wondering about the adventures of characters like Pyjama Jams and Tor. We also get to spend some time with Allyson in her space, dictating her thoughts to her phone ala Dale Cooper’s microcasettes. Every moment and space has thoughtful purpose, and gives these scenes space to breathe, reflect, and admire.

    The wonderful world of The Secret Society for Slow Romance. Image Copyright 2021 Sujewa Ekanayake. Used with permission.

    Because we spend so much time with Rene and Allyson together, it was refreshing to see them talking, listening, and reflecting with each other. While many films with philosophical concepts create talking-head vehicles for monologues, The Secret Society for Slow Romance remembers that it is, indeed, a romance — and space for conversation is important to such things. Questions are asked and answered with earnestness, and while the conversation topics can soar to incredible, elevated discussions exploring the nature of happiness, Rene and Allyson never take themselves or the subject matter too seriously. This is the rare sort of movie that allows you to curl up in a comfortable part of the world while still acknowledging the faults of that world.

    Yet, The Secret Society for Slow Romance isn’t satisfied with the boy meets girl plot. A Secret Society should have a loftier, larger project — one that could transform independent film making and ultimately end world poverty. But to understand how it all works, you need to see the movie, it’s worth it. Besides, Google won’t help you find that bit about Winston Churchill.

    The Secret Society For Slow Romance will be released in April 2022, and you can go to the official website, https://www.slowromancemovie.com, to track the film’s progress towards saving the world!

    By Jamie Toth, The Somewhat Cyclops on .

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    Exported from Medium on January 21, 2022.

  • What I Learned By Sewing and Wearing An 1890’s Working Woman’s Corset

    I’m just going to say it, I really like the way I look in a corset.

    Left: Victorian corset ad (source) // Right: Victorian corset (source)

    A confluence of things six months ago first lead me to the strange thought that I could sew a corset. The thought that I could sew one lead me straight to the idea that I should.

    I’m not alone in such notions — there’s been such an explosive interest in the integration of historical clothing into modern wardrobes that it has its name, ‘history bounding.’ There’s also no shortage of YouTube tutorials for corsetry that covers everything from sewing techniques to an in-depth analysis of how each corset style affects the body’s shape.

    A drawing of an 1878 corset. Anonymous/Unknown author, Public domain, via Wikimedia Commons

    There’s also a fair amount of misinformation about corsetry, and learning how to spot the myths made the project exceptionally enticing.

    Interestingly, our society tends to acknowledge the quackery rampant in the time while simultaneously upholding some of the ‘science’ around corsetry that was produced.

    In the most simple terms, a corset is a structured support garment that molds the torso into a particular shape.

    Corsets evolved from stays, the structured support garment that molded the torso into a conical shape in the 1700s. Corsets continued to adapt, change, disappear, and reappear (as fashion is wont to do).

    As part of my project to recreate a working woman’s corset from the 1890s, I’ve sewn my corset and have been wearing it for around 14 hours a day for the last two months.

    I’ve learned a lot through the process!

    Victorians were highly aware of the newest materials and methods. Corsetry showed that.

    Corsets (and stays, their predecessors) manage the task of body molding by having a series of bones of rigid material. Some corsets feature only cording to perform this task, which is where strong cords are sewn between layers of cloth to create that rigid structure. I’m sure you can imagine that the more work has to be done to make the body conform to the ‘fashionable shape,’ the more work has to be performed by those bones (and their placement).

    Whale gums. Not kidding.

    Baleen. Image By Anon at NOAA Fisheries Service — ; a US government site. Image in Public Domain, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=139185

    Traditionally the bones in stays and corsets were most often made from baleen, the part of a whale’s gums that acts as a feeding filter.

    That’s what’s being referred to in corset-making where it’s called ‘whalebone,’ even though it’s not a bone.

    In an article by Smithsonian magazine, they found that the baleen of toothless whales can be a way to study their lives, likening the substance to the rings of a tree.

    By the late 1800s, thankfully, the use of steel boning was becoming more common because, essentially, baleen was getting too expensive. The working women’s corset I modeled mine after, is named the “Pretty Housemaid” (it was marketed to housemaids) and documented and patterned in Jill Salen’s Corsets: Historical Patterns and Techniques. This particular design had minimal boning, instead depending on the cording for shaping.

    While baleen has a lot of properties to keep in mind when selecting modern boning for a replica corset, there are many options to choose from that have different uses for boning in corsetry. Flat steel bones next to the lacing prevent puckering of the fabric when pulled tight.

    Also, feathers. Quills, actually.

    Victorians also used ‘featherbone,’ which is boning made from the quills of feathers. For modern corsetry, Spiral steel bones allow scant flexibility in one direction. Rigilene generously allows for movement but doesn’t have a lot of long-term durability. For those looking to do as true to history recreations as they can, there’s a plastic-based synthetic whalebone. For those with a time or budget crunch, zip ties can also be used!

    After reading about how the Victorians approached their lives, I felt free to adapt and use the material that best suited my needs, which is very Victorian indeed.

    Textiles involve a lot of work, thus textile history involves a lot of suffering.

    Even beyond using whale gums to make clothing and hunting birds to extinction to make hats, the history of textiles and clothes involves suffering. Reading about it can be difficult because the thought that someone, somewhere was suffering to make all of that grand, cloth-hungry clothing happen is never far from my mind.

    The Peacock Dress, a pretty dress with a horribly bloody, colonialist history. You bet she’s tightlacing that corset, too. By William Logsdail — http://artuk.org/discover/artworks/mary-victoria-leiter-18701906-lady-curzon-172109, Image in Public Domain, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=31465017

    From the horrors of the colonialist practices of England to, well, actual slavery —it should go without saying that the history of textiles is dripping with blood.

    There are a lot of conversations happening in the historical costuming community about that history, how to appropriately deal with that history, and how to ensure we learn from it.

    I have been a geek about creating and using cloth for decades, and I can tell you that even the smallest square of cloth takes intense labor that many people reading this are sheltered from considering.

    There’s an incredible amount of labor represented in just creating the fiber that’s used to create cloth.

    Milling and spinning that fiber into a usable yarn represents more. It takes only one time warping a loom to understand how physically demanding that part of textile work is. To keep these things clean and in use and in rotation for a household was even more incredibly labor-intensive and used materials we don’t even want to contemplate (lye and urine spring to mind).

    Doing any kind of study into textile arts or historical dress will intersect with the enormous human toll these tasks took. Invariably, those tolls were paid by those with little to no power.

    The Victorians loved a good corset horror story.

    The Victorians in general were wild for any weird story they could get. The freakier and stranger the better, and it was no different for corsets. One paper clipping from the Chico Record in 1897 documents how lightning struck three girls, and the only survivor was the one not wearing a corset (the steel bones of the corset directed the ‘electric fluid.’ If it could be sensationalized and sell newspapers, then that’s what got printed.

    The Victorians loved to document, which makes it a great period to make garments from.

    If you want to get into historical sewing, the Victorian period is a great period, because the Victorians loved to document their lives and practices. There’s also some amazing work at restoring, recording, and patterning extant garments.

    My favorite way to learn how to make the garments is mainly from their sewing manuals and correspondence courses. Manual of needlework and cutting out : specially adapted for teachers of sewing, students, and pupil-teachers by Agnes Walker, The Keystone Jacket and Dress Cutter by Charles Hecklinger, Household Sewing with Home Dressmaking by Bertha Banner (1898), and A Manual of Exercises in Home Sewing by Margaret Blair (1863) are some of my favorites. You can find a lot of these little gems on archive.org (and you’ll also find them repackaged and re-sold on Amazon, if you want copies in print).

    While these sources aren’t as helpful for corsets as the Symington Corset Pattern archive hosted at Image Leicester along with amazing step-by-step instructions (or even Aranea’s Black exceptional free patterns), they are all a wonderful look into what the Victorian woman had on her mind (and in her sewing pile) at the time. You’ll also find that Victorian women’s clothes had plenty of pockets (yet another great reason for history bounding).

    It was the Victorian’s love of fastidious documentation that has made it a wonderful period of fashion to recreate and be inspired by.

    No matter what you’ve seen, they didn’t wear corsets next to their skin.

    If you’re interested in making a corset, the first thing you should make for yourself is a chemise. Not only is it great practice, but it’s also a necessity. No matter what you’ve seen on TV or in the movies, corsets weren’t worn next to the skin — that was the job of the chemise (which helped to keep the corset clean, too!). This is especially true if the intent is to tight lace.

    I thought that making the chemise was just a chore I was going to have to do before I got to make the corset — and instead I have been enjoying several different patterns and types of chemises and integrating them into my wardrobe, too! This necessary layer not only protects my skin from being pulled and pinched by the corset, but it keeps me from getting it too dirty.

    Chemises, after all, are far easier to wash than corsets.

    Men wore corsets, too.

    It’s well-documented. The slim-waist was in, all around.

    Victorians loved showing off what their machines could do.

    The cording in the mockup I’ve been wearing for two months before sewing the final version. Image Source: Author.

    While I appreciate those who hand-sew all of their garments as part of historical recreations, I know that Victorians would love using a machine to do the work. It was a real theme for them.

    The sort of cording found in the corset that I decided to recreate is extensive and serves as a way to show off the capability of the machine and its operator in addition to giving structure and shape. There are two main ways I know of to make corded cloth. In one, you can either sew thin channels and then use a bodkin or other long, slender needle to pull the cord through the channel. The other involves carefully placing the cord against the last seam and then sewing right up against it to create the channel. Either way, having these extensive corded panels was a good way to show off all the abilities of one of the newest inventions: the sewing machine.

    The tiny Victorian waist was partially an optical illusion.

    A perfect cylinder, somewhat like what a corset creates, will appear to be smaller than the more elliptical human-torso form. Even when I only lace down to match my uncorseted measurements, I appear like I have a much smaller waist.

    My dress form and me while working with a mockup — both have the same size waist. Image Source: Author

    Victorians knew the power of good angles and optical illusions and took as much advantage of that as we do. Why else do you think they had dresses that featured enormous sleeves and the bustled bottom?

    “But what about their tiny clothes, we’ve measured them?” you might ask.

    The other important factor to consider here is survivability bias — the teeny-tiny clothes survived because no one wore them.

    Not every Victorian woman tight-laced her corset, or even wore one.

    There was an improvement between stays and corsets that allowed for more reduction of the waist, and that was the metal grommet. Before the adoption of metal grommets, lacing was done through hand-sewn eyelets which didn’t have the same durability against tight lacing (though certainly many did perform some moderate waist reduction with their stays). It was all of their technology that allowed Victorian ladies to tight-lace down to impossibly small sizes. (Don’t forget, however, that Victorians also knew how to perform trick photography.)

    Crown and Scepter from Colusa Daily Sun commenting that Queen Victoria and Princess Beatrice eschew corsets. Volume VII, Number 13, 15 November 1892.

    Just like with high fashion today, not everyone attends to all fashion trends. Queen Victoria herself stopped following fashion and stopped wearing corsets (and this was noted in papers). In 1881 the ‘Rational Dress Society’ was formed in London, encouraging a movement away from tight-laced corsets and widening skirt hoops. Women interested in rational dress would sometimes wear skirts over a pair of pantaloons named “Bloomers” for Amelia Bloomer, the temperance activist that fiercely advocated for their use in her temperance magazine ‘The Lily.’ Clearly, not every woman tight-laced her corset: the main use for such an undergarment was to support a fashionable silhouette.

    The Victorians understood more about textiles than we do.

    For the most part, people spent more time with their textiles before the invention of the washing machine and consumable fast fashion. Because of the labor intense processes and expense of the cloth, the Victorians valued and treasured their textiles far more than we do. Overall they embraced sustainable practices such as mending and clothing transformation far more than we do (they also helped bring consumerism to the forefront so I don’t want to overly lionize them or anything here).

    There is an amazing understanding that happens when you start to create something, and I’ve learned so much about cloth from the processes of creating it from the fiber up —lessons that were baked into the day-to-day life of the Victorians. If I have hand-knit a pair of socks, there’s a way for me to mend and darn them, and I’m far more likely to because it takes a long time to hand-knit socks.

    The cloth-savviness of the Victorians didn’t stop at how they cared for it.

    The Victorians used layering and the properties of different fiber content to their advantage. They ensure that linen, the cloth that was most likely to stand up to the brutalities of repeated washing, was worn next to the skin, leaving the fine silks and wools free of the body’s filth. They understood how friction between layers would create heat, and that layers created from bast fibers of plants would wick sweat from the body.

    While the Victorians had some pretty horrific societal values and a remedial understanding of germs and disease — they knew an awful lot about their cloth.

    Sewing the Pretty Housemaid corset mockup. Image Source: Author.

    There are some real surprises in corset construction.

    The flossing has a purpose.

    When the corset is corded, it starts to have a shape all of its own.

    The moments you put the bones in, it’s like the corset comes to life.

    Sewing the busk taught me a level of anxiety I didn’t think possible in a hobby.

    Seam construction is crazy: sew wrong sides together and welt the seams with bias tape wasn’t what I was expecting.

    There were a lot of things that surprised me about the way the corset was constructed, and in some of my mockups, I intentionally did things wrong to see how they contributed to the garment’s longevity and wearability.

    Victorian sewing manuals allowed for many different body types.

    Many of the sewing manuals will walk the reader through sewing adjustments for the stooping form, the ‘stout’ form, the ‘erect’ form — in other words, they acknowledged that people came in all sorts of shapes, and helped sewists adjust for those shapes. There was an ideal form. Corsetry and appropriate patterning help one achieve that form.

    The corset was integral for many to be able to achieve that ideal shape.

    Split-crotch drawers made a lot of sense after I wore a corset.

    So does the saying, ‘shoes before corset.’

    I just have to come out and say it — modern underwear doesn’t play super great with Victorian corsets, it’s hard to tuck the underwear up under the bottom edge of the corset when you’re all finished. So the very first time I had to struggle to get my elastic-waisted underwear under my corset, those split-crotch drawers suddenly made a lot of sense to me.

    Fashion / Dress History is still a young field and establishing itself but has so much to offer due to its experiential nature.

    To get this sort of figure requires corsetry to reduce the waist, tilt the hips, and enhance the bust — the corset could do all three. Image source: Public Domain, New York Public Library.

    Once the topic is given any consideration it’s clear that not only is fashion a form of art, it also has a lot to say about history.

    Perhaps it was misogyny that kept academics from taking a more serious look at the field, or perhaps it’s just easy to forget how important a tool clothing is.

    Regardless of the reason it was ignored for so long, there’s a huge interest in fashion history that is growing steam.

    Dress history and textile history will become more important as humankind seeks out more sustainable practices.

    My corset is comforting to me.

    I’m just going to say it, I really like the way I look in a corset. It also encourages me to have good posture throughout the day. The process of drafting and scaling a pattern showed me a lot of things about myself. Being able to wear the corset and use it as a tool has helped me understand a lot about sewing and a lot about the Victorian mindset. Wearing it gives me confidence not just in how I look, but in my capabilities.

    What they say is true — to make a corset, all you need to do is sew a straight line.

    And make a lot of mockups.

    After a corset, making a lobster tail bustle isn’t hard.

    Image Source: Author.

    Article Sources:

    Pretty Housemaid Corset, 1890
    Woman’s Pretty Housemaid corset made by the Symington company. A best seller of its time, made of twill lined with…imageleicestershire.org.uk

    https://www.unseenhistories.com/victorians-redressed

    Which boning should I use for corset making?
    Metal corsetry boning was invented in the 1800’s by the Victorians when their preferred corset boning of choice…www.sewcurvy.com

    Women in Trousers – From Bloomers to Rational Dress
    Escaping ‘the kingdom of fancy, fashion and foolery’ “The 1848 Women’s Rights Convention was the first of its kind to…helenrappaport.com

    Victorian dress reform – Wikipedia
    Victorian dress reform was an objective of the Victorian dress reform movement (also known as the rational dress…en.wikipedia.org

    Chico Record — 16 June 1897

    By Jamie Toth, The Somewhat Cyclops on .